6 Days to Northeast Oregon

La Grande to Joseph

• La Grande has long been a hub for much of eastern Oregon. The natural hot springs and abundant wildlife and vegetation attracted the Bannock, Nez Perce, and Cayuse people to the Grande Ronde Valley during the mild months. Later, European explorers, trappers, missionaries, and finally pioneers also enjoyed a respite in this huge round valley. A stop at the visitor center of the Union County Tourism, next to Blockbuster Video on the corner of Fourth and Adams, will provide complete information on how to explore northeastern Oregon. (www.visitlagrande.com) Pick up a guide at the visitor center and take a walking tour of the community’s historic homes. Explore the many fine shops and restaurants in the beautiful brick buildings that make up La Grande’s downtown. There are lots of choices for dining, with menus ranging from Mexican food to Northwest Cuisine, including three restaurants that are listed inNorthwest Best Places. The campus of Eastern Oregon University sits on the hill above the historic downtown.

• Take OR Hwy. 82, following the signs to Elgin. The blue sky, fresh air, and wonderful aroma of mint are invigorating. The Grande Ronde Valley, named by early French trappers, is one of the nation’s major producers of mint oil and grass seed. While in Elgin, stop for a peek or a performance at the Elgin Opera House. Built in 1912 and recently restored, this opera house is known for its turn-of-the-century charm, stamped tin ceilings, fine acoustics, and fresh buttered popcorn (541-437-3456). Local performances and first-run movies keep the ghosts of yesterday alive and entertained. The Opera House also houses the community’s historical museum.

Eagles, Karen L. Carlsen

• Traveling Hwy. 82 toward the Wallowa Valley, the road climbs from the river bottom to the plateau country. Early ranching families toiled in the deep soil and nursed the natural springs to bring even more life to the prairie. With pockets of timber and grassy fields, the area looks much as it did 150 years ago. Continue on, dropping into the confluence of the Minam and Wallowa Rivers. While descending into the river canyon, watch for Rocky Mountain elk on the hillsides. Some of the best steelhead fishing in Oregon can be found here and farther down the Grande Ronde. Little Creek Outfitters (541-963-7878) offers float and fishing trips and the opportunity to catch the “BIG” one! Call local visitor information centers for other outfitters in the region. Take Yarrington Road for a side trip to Looking Glass Fish Hatchery and a glimpse of the salmon recovery program. Campers will enjoy Minam State Park, situated right on the banks of the Wallowa River two miles downstream from the highway. The Wallowa, Minam, and Grande Ronde Rivers are just three of the many federally designated Wild & Scenic Rivers and State Scenic Waterways in the region.

• Hwy. 82 winds along the sparkling Wallowa River. The narrow canyon soon opens up into the extraordinarily beautiful Wallowa Valley. Rimmed by the 10,000-foot high Wallowa Mountains, the valley elicits a collective “Wow!” from everyone in the vehicle. This is the home of the Nez Perce. Friends to Lewis & Clark and early settlers, the Nez Perce once occupied large land areas of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. This valley held special significance.

“I buried him in that valley of the winding water. I love that land more than all the rest of the world.” Young Chief Joseph

• When the United States Government was given control of much of the Nez Perce lands in the Stevens Treaty of 1855, the Nez Perce were supposed to keep the heart of their domain, including the Wallowas. But things changed, and promises were broken by the U.S. government, representing the American people, in 1877. With one of history’s great and tragic military feats, Young Chief Joseph led a group of 750 men, women, and children in an attempt to reach Canada. Hotly pursued by soldiers, they made it to within 50 miles of safety before being captured in the Bears Paw Mountains of Montana and sent to reservations. Nee Me Poo Trail, the 1100-mile escape route, is a National Historic Trail.

* Helpful Books & Supportive Literature: The Flight of the Nez Perce, by Mark H. Brown, University of Nebraska Press

Elkhorn Ridge/Blue Mountains, Jeffrey L. Torretta

• For nearly 120 years, no Nez Perce tribal member lived in Wallowa County. Today, residents of the little town of Wallowa and the Nez Perce are working together to build the Wallowa Band Nez Perce Trail Interpretive Center. The facility will tell the story and provide a gathering place where tribal customs and culture will be preserved in the land first inhabited by the Nez Perce (800-585-4121).

• Continuing up the valley on Hwy. 82, take a detour north on Hwy. 3 toward Flora to peer into the dramatic Joseph Canyon from the Joseph Canyon Overlook (541-432-9452). This was a winter camp site for the Nez Perce.

• The little towns of Wallowa, Lostine, Enterprise, and Joseph roll past your window—don’t rush through. Take time for friendly conversation with residents, and learn about the rich cultural history they embrace. Explore the antique and specialty shops, and take home something special. Have a latté while you watch Chief Joseph Mountain change in the subtle light. For a great orientation, stop just west of Enterprise at the U.S. Forest Service Wallowa Mountain Visitors’ Center (541-426-5546). This beautiful facility has a wonderful collection of Indian artifacts, along with interpretation, natural history displays, and literature about everything.

•In Joseph, tour Valley Bronze of Oregon (541-432-7551) and discover the “lost wax method” of making the larger-than-life-size bronze sculptures that line Joseph’s Art Walk on Main Street. Galleries here offer works by some the America’s most acclaimed sculptors.

Wallowa Mountains, Photo by David Jensen

• Witness the Great Joseph Bank Robbery during the summer months at the Wallowa County Museum (541-432-6095). The early ranchers in the area brought with them the practical artistry of barn building, which was very important for protecting summer hay crops for use in the dead of winter. The Wallowa Valley Barn Tour (541-426-0219) provides a great view of these structures, set against the backdrop of the Wallowa Mountains. The Manuel Museum (541-426-7235) in Joseph has a world-class collection of Indian artifacts, John Wayne mementos, and western art. Take a moment at the edge of Wallowa Lake to view the Chief Joseph Monument and grave site.

• Ice-age activities shaped the area around Wallowa Lake. The lateral moraines along the east and west edges of the lake were carved by glaciers as they inched their way down the valley. There are lots of activities to enjoy here: great fishing and water sports, go carts, miniature golf, hiking, Llama packing, or horse-back riding into the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Plan a few days for a mountain adventure. The wilderness has over 500 miles of trails through alpine meadows and past pristine lakes. Often called the “Alps of Oregon,” this breathtaking panorama can best be viewed from the Wallowa Lake Tramway (541-432-5331), the steepest vertical gondola ride in North America. Wallowa Lake State Park is a favorite camping facility for many people, and reservations are recommended (www.oregonstateparks.org).

Halfway

• It’s hard to leave this valley, and easy to see why it captures the hearts of so many. When it’s time to press on, continue on the Hells Canyon All-American Road by heading out of Joseph on Hwy. 350 toward Imnaha, then taking a right toward Halfway on FS Road 39.

UFO’s and Rattlesnakes

A side trip well worth taking is to the tiny town of Imnaha, and then on to Hat Point. Locals say there have been more UFO sightings here than in any other place in Oregon, maybe even in all of North America. Why? Hard to say—except that the annual Rattlesnake & Bear Feed does stir odd emotions in people. After a steep climb out of the Imnaha Canyon, the improved gravel road leads to the Hat Point Lookout, which gives the most spectacular view into Hells Canyon and across to the Seven Devils Mountain Range. Here, it’s a mile down from the canyon rim to the banks of the Snake River. The warm breeze that rises out of the canyon kisses your face and lingers in your mind. Figure at least four hours for this side trip.

• After climbing, winding, peering into rugged, tree-lined valleys, and skirting the edge of Hells Canyon, your next stop is the Hells Canyon Overlook. Just over 25 years ago, 700,000 acres of some of the most rugged wildlands in America were designated the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area. Rather unique within the National Forest lands, this legislation called for diverse groups such as ranchers, loggers, recreationists, and preservationists to work together to protect this incredible place.

• On the other side of the mountains, Oxbow offers several Bed & Breakfast establishments, and the Idaho Power Park camping facilities at Oxbow or just down river toward Hells Canyon Dam are excellent. (Call ahead for reservations! 800-422-3143.) A short drive on Hwy. 86 to Halfway will also provide lodging in a farm-style B&B or small motel.

Baker City

• A trip to northeastern Oregon would not be complete without a trip to Hells Canyon. Yesterday the view was down from above—today it’s from the water UP! From Oxbow, cross the river and follow the current downstream toward Hells Canyon Dam. The river and canyon can be experienced several different ways—jet boat, raft, horse back, or on foot. Several outfitters in the area offer these opportunities. Hells Canyon Adventures (541-785-3352) provides one-day raft trips and shorter jet boat experiences. Hells Canyon Whitewater (www.hellscanyonwhitewater.com) offers rafting. Calling ahead is a must. The U.S. Forest Service Visitors’ Center located at the dam interprets the formation of the deepest canyon in North America and discusses the variety of plants and animals that thrive in Hells Canyon. The canyon’s rugged, lichen-covered basalt rock is a perfect backdrop for the spectacular colors of the seasons: bright green grass in spring, summer’s blue sky and shades of browns and grays, fall’s brilliant red sumac. Plan an entire day to experience this unique landscape.

• On the trip along Hwy. 86 to Baker City, notice the beautifully kept farms and ranches. Family heritage runs deep here, with century-old pride and protection of the resources. Richland has a growing season longer than most in the region and produces peaches, pears, berries, and beautiful flowers primarily for local consumption.

• Just before reaching Baker City, stop at the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center (541-523-1843), operated by the Bureau of Land Management along with the nonprofit volunteer group Trail Tenders, Inc. This 23,000-square-foot facility tells the stories and relives the experiences of the Oregon Trail emigrants. Daily performances, along with a variety of annual events, help bring the voices of the Trail back to life.

• The Baker County Chamber & Visitor Center at 490 Campbell Street can provide extensive information on the area’s activities, attractions, events, and lodging opportunities (800-523-1235 or www.visitbaker.com).

Baker City

• Begin with a hearty breakfast at one of the fine eating establishments in Baker City. Mornings are a good time to put on walking shoes and follow the tour of Historic Baker City. With over 110 homes and buildings on the National Historic Register, it will take a bit of time to meet the gold miners, some schemers, and the society women of the town’s past. The Adler House Museum offers guided tours of the 1880s home, and the Oregon Trail Regional Museum holds the region’s history and a spectacular rock collection valued at one-half million dollars.

Anthony Lakes, Photo by Rod Koopman

 

• When leaving Baker City, take Hwy. 30 to Haines and stop by the Eastern Oregon Museum for a wonderful look at the “real-life” pieces of history from the families within the Baker Valley. Next, follow the Elkhorn Scenic Byway, departing Haines on the Anthony Lakes Highway up the side of the Blue Mountains. A stop at any one of the high mountain lakes within the Anthony Lakes system is a must. These granite mountains were pushed up and then carved over millions of years by glaciers, wind, rain, and ice. Today they are home to Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort (541-856-3277), for wintertime activities from skiing to snowmobiling. In the summer and fall the quiet lake is a great place for hiking, fishing, camping and enjoying the majesty of the surrounding peaks.

Guardian of the Valley

In the afternoon sun of the Baker Valley in spring and winter, there appears a portrait of an old Indian in the peaks of the Elkhorn Mountains. It is a huge shadow, looking down upon all activities below. Legend has it that this was a very spiritual place and the Guardian of the Valley foretold the seasons; the time to return to dig roots and the time to leave to prepare for winter. He watches over the valley still.

• Continue the byway down the western side of the spine of the Elkhorn ridge toward Granite. The work of Mother Nature is apparent here, where recovery is under way after recent forest fires left their mark on the land. In Granite, take a moment to drive or walk through this once-bustling mining town. Many of the 1880- to early-1900 buildings, homes, and businesses are well marked with their past occupation. Check out the Granite Store for a snack or lunch.

• The large piles of rock along the creek bed on the route to Sumpter begin the story of dredge mining in the area. The huge floating machine literally ate its way up streams, searching for the treasure of gold. The Sumpter Valley Dredge State Heritage Area (1-800-551-6949 or 541-894-2486) offers a guided tour through the gold-hungry monster and is located at the edge of the little town of Sumpter. Take some time to explore Sumpter’s antique shops, galleries featuring local artists, restaurants, and lodging establishments. This community hosts the region’s most popular flea markets on Memorial Day, July Fourth, and Labor Day weekends.

• Just past Sumpter, the highway merges with Hwy. 7. Turn toward Baker City. The last stop of the day will be a trip on the Stumpdodger—The Sumpter Valley Railroad (541-894-2268). This narrow-gauge, steam-powered railroad provided freight and passenger transportation to early miners, loggers, and cattlemen from Prairie City to Baker City, over some of the area’s most rugged terrain.

La Grande

• It’s a wonderful day for a “Grande Tour” and a fitting end to your northeast Oregon journey. From Baker City, follow Hwy. 203 toward Medical Springs and Catherine Creek. With the Wallowa Mountains to the east and the Blue Mountains to the west, the road travels through sagebrush draws, rimrock vistas and mixed conifer forests. Watch for mule deer and Pronghorn antelope, along with a variety of raptors and their favorite prey—rabbits and ground squirrels. On the banks of a tumbling mountain creek, Catherine Creek State Park is a pleasant stop for a hike, picnic, or good fishing. Nearby is trailhead access to the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Downstream, the little town of Union offers a glimpse into history. The beautiful Victorian homes, brick commercial buildings, and the historic Union Hotel make it easy to imagine the time when cattle were moved slowly down Main Street to the railhead. The Cowboys Then and Now Exhibit in the Union County Museum tells the history of cattle and cowboys in America, from real cowpunchers to rodeo cowboys to Hollywood and contemporary ranching.

Minam River, Photo by Jeffrey L. Torretta

 

• Leave Union on OR Hwy. 237, traveling to Cove. Protected from the harsh winds of the Grande Ronde Valley, Cove grows a healthy crop of cherries and other fruits. The little Ascension Chapel located here was built in 1869 and includes a stained-glass window that was brought around the Horn. The chapel is still used for worship today. The Cove Hot Springs Pool offers an opportunity to soak in naturally heated water, out in the open air.

• Out through the valley, grass seed, mint, wheat, barley, oats, and canola crops are testament to the fertile soil and agreeable climate. Once a huge lake bed and still very marshy in areas, the Grande Ronde Valley is a wildlife haven. At the southwest end of the valley, the Ladd Marsh Wildlife area has photography blinds, hiking trails and a view point, from which elk can be spotted year-round. Back in La Grande, stop by the Think Link Discovery Center. Located downtown in a turn-of-the-century house, the center offers fields trips, exhibits, and activities for children of all ages.

• A short drive up I-84 to the Oregon Trail Interpretive Park at Blue Mt. Crossing or a night camping at Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area is a fitting end to exploration of the “Land of Scenic Wonders.” Here the Native People hunted the Wapiti—the white-rumped elk; Marcus and Narcissa Whitman passed with the first wheeled form of transportation along what would become the Oregon Trail; pioneers struggled on their way through the steep and rugged Blue Mountains to the “Promised Land” of the Willamette Valley and Oregon City. Listen. Is that the sound of drumming on the breeze, the creak of wagon wheels, or just the beating of your heart?

• Those who live in Northeast Oregon are passionate about their homeland. Many have roots here going back several generations. Others are relative newcomers. Some came to visit and decided to stay. Not everyone is drawn to wide-open spaces, small-town ambiance and a daily dance with nature. If you are, you will want to visit again and again.